Tiger Country, Bandhavgarh, M.P., India

TRIP DATE: 9th April to 12th April 2009

Call of the Wild was finally answered after a long wait. It was around same time last year that my friends visited Kanha and Bandhavgarh, returned all excited. This year it was my turn to experience the thrill. Summers (march to June) is better time to visit Tiger or any other forest reserve in north India if you are interested in spoting animals, specially Tiger. Its during this time when jungle is dry you can see till long distance plus its easier to zero down on locations where Big Cat can be spotted as he is gonna come to one of watering holes or relax under shades of some big tree. But if you wanted to enjoy the green lush environs and enjoy being outdoor then you should go between Oct to Feb. We booked our train ticket one month in advance to avoid last minute rush. Closest railway station to Bandhavgarh is Umaria but there are few trains from Delhi to Umarai. So we decided to get off at Kat tini. One can also take a flight to Jabalpur from where it is around 3-4 hours.


We got off at Katni station after an overnight journey from Delhi. Bandhavgarh is our around 100 km from Katni. Our cab was waiting right at station, which took around two and a half hours to reach Bandhavgarh. Since we were four of us we decided to hire a Qaulis (MUV) who charged us Rs.1600 each side. We had already booked our air cooled (don’t get confused with the term AC, which is commonly used for air cooled rooms here) in a jungle resort. Our resort was well appointed mid-budget comfortable place to stay. Mogli resort was located slightly off main bazaar and just 2 kms away from the reserve. Last stretch of almost a km towards the resort was through kuchcha rasta. Most of the resorts are located at similar locations.

 


Post lunch we were all excited to go for our first Jungle safari. Bandhavgarh (derived from Bandhogarh) was declared a national park in 1968 with an area of 105 km². The buffer is spread over the forest divisions of Umaria and Katni and totals 437 km², which was increased to 694 km² in 1993. The park derives its name from the most prominent hillock of the area, which is said to be given by Lord Rama to his brother Laxman to keep a watch on Lanka (Ceylon). Hence the name Bandhavgarh (Sanskrit Brother's Fort).

The lowest point in the park is at Tala, 440 m above sea level. In 1982, three more ranges namely, Khitauli, Magdhi and Kallawah were added to Tala range (the original Bandhavgarh National Park). Tala still remains the favorite area for spotting tigers and we were told that we were lucky to get permission in enter Tala region as we had gone on a long weekend and there were lot of other visitors. Its always better to book safari in advance to avoid any last minute availability issues.

There is a saying about the Park that " In any other Park, You got to be lucky to spot a tiger. In Bandhavgarh, you would be really unlucky if you don't see (at least) one." So it was only moments after we started our safari that we realised that we were not so unlucky after all. We spotted a tigress, relaxing amongst green surroundings under a tree. All the gypsies rushed to that spot and soon there was a traffic jam on that route. There were professional photographers, documentary makers along with tourists from across the world to check out the big cat. Most forests are full of surprises but there is nothing to beat one’s first sighting of tiger in the wild. She seemed completely oblivious of our presence and continued to yawn every once in a while. Tigers in this reserve are very human friendly and they are use to tourists around.

After a while we had to move out of that area and give chance to others. Initially we got excited when we spotted a Chittal (spotted Deer) but soon we found out that they were in abundance (around 7000).

 

The wide valleys along the streams carry long linear grasslands flanked by Sal forests. Rich mixed forests consisting of Sal, Saja, Salai, and Dhobin etc. with dense bamboo thickets occur in many places. These together provide Bandhavgarh its rich biodiversity making it one of the most interesting reserves.



At the centre of the Park is the Bandhavgarh hill, rising 811 m above sea level – surrounding it are a large number of smaller hills separated by gently sloping valleys. These valleys end in small, swampy meadows, locally known as 'bohera'. The park lies within the tropical monsoon climatic zone, characterized by well-defined winters, summers and rains. Temperature ranges from 2 2 °Cto a high of 44 °C as per the records.

 After our almost two hour safari around that sector of jungle we decided to move towards exit. Today being the first day we would get excited on almost every thing we spotted, Wild Boar, Nilgai, etc. With the tiger at the apex of the food chain, reserve contains 37 species of mammals, more than 250 species of birds, about 70 species of butterflies, a number of reptiles. Along one of the water holes we spotted a peacock with all its wings spread out, probably stretching when day was coming to an end. I decided to hang-on and click some pictures. Suddenly from the bushes came out another Tigress. Seeing tiger in wild every time is as enduring as it was the first time, same suspension of breath, same dreadful awe, same feeling of getting attracted to beauty and fear of the predator. Unlike last time, this tigress was roaming in an open area and we were first one to spot it. While this tigress was not as big as previous one but we were watching it from shorter distance,  I think the closest it came was 30 ft. Our day was made by spotting two tigers on the very first safari. Bandhavgarh has a very high density of tigers within the folds of its jungles. The 105 km² of park area open for tourist was reported to have 24 Tigers, a density of more one tiger for every 4.77 km².

Late evening was time to enjoy to Mahua, local liquor at the Machan in resort. This pungent smelling liquor tastes equally pungent. Most of us couldn’t manage to finish even one drink. 
 



Next morning we just decided to laze around and take a walk around the hotel. There was nothing around the hotel except barren red soil land, dry trees and dusty lanes. Tractor ride to main market was interesting but walking back to the hotel on that sunny afternoon was not so interesting. Evening was time for Fort Safari. To reach the fort one has to cross though the Jungle. Fort safari is slightly more expensive than Jungle safari. Jungle safari costs Rs.1700 for one gypsy and charges for Fort Safari are Rs.2500 plus entrance Rs.700. each gypsy is allowed to take maximum six people inside.

Drive up to Fort was really steep and only a 4X4 vehicle can manage to climb. Charm of this drive lies in discovering these monuments in the jungle, unspoiled and unexplored. We were told that there is another tigress with her three cubs who stays on the way to Fort but werent lucky enough to spot them.

After a steep climb we reached the supposedly 2000 year old fort. It is suppose to be the oldest fort in India. Some of the statues lie off the main path and so it is best to take a guide. Apart from the status avatars of Lord Vishnu spread across the area there are three small temples of around the 12th century. These temples are deserted but the fort is still used as a place of worship. Kabir Das, the celebrated 16th century saint, once lived and preached here. The natural ramparts of the fort give breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside. Vultures wheel around the precipice which also attracts blue rock thrushes and crag martins. The fort still belongs to the Maharaja of Rewa and permission is required to visit it. However permission is available locally and no trip to Bandhavgarh is complete without making an effort to climb up the fort.

Another adorable animal we found in abundance through out the jungle were Gray Langoors, also known as Old World monkeys seemed like original resident of this fort and reserve who had lived the history here.

Once you reach the fort you are allowed to get off the gypsy. This fort was unlike any other fort I had seen before. Most of the forts I had seen earlier had a very clear history behind it but here was fort which seemed older than history. No records are available to show when Bandhavgarh fort was constructed. However it is thought, to be some 2000 years old, and there are references to it in the ancient books, the “Narad-Panch Ratra” and the “Shiva Purana”. The last inhabitants deserted the fort in 1935.

Within a radius of 5 kms there are 39 caves within in the Bandhavgarh fort and in surrounding hillocks. Several caves carry inscriptions in Brahmi script. The oldest cave is from 1st century. Some caves have embossed figure such as those of tiger, pig, elephant and horseman. Badi gufa, the largest cave, has broad entrance, nine small rooms and several pillars. Its dated back to the 10th century. The cave appears primitive, lacking elaborate statues and carvings seen in the caves of Buddhists period. Its purpose remains mystery. Not all caves are accessible but our guide kept on informing us about various caves and related status. Its mandatory to have a guide while entering the jungle and/or safari. There are trained guides available at the entrance and guides are deputed by the forest officials while issuing entrance pass at the gate of reserve.




At the top of the hillock is the centuries old temple of Ram-Lakshman. Alongside the temple is a pond whith 12 temples around and an old treasury with treasury chest inside. I wonder if its  still full of gold coins :). A group of temples in the fort is assignable to the latter half of the eighth century. More than a dozen ornate pillars from other ruined temples were utilised for fort structures. These Rucaka pillars bear typical early ninth century carvings of Ghatapallavas, Grasamukha, Ardhapadma, vertical patravalli and palmette brackets. View from the top is breathtaking. One can see the entire valley across

The Fort houses a spectacular assortment of monolithic statues of Lord Vishnu in his many incarnations. Turtle, Wild boar, Fish and more. According to some legends the fish grows every year. During Janmashtami (Birth of Lord Krishna; in the month aug) villagers are allowed to walk across the reserve and reach this fort for worship. That’s the only time one can walk across the reserve.

While we were driving back from Fort a fellow gypsy driver informed us about another tiger spotted close by. All gypsies quickly turned towards that direction. The king was walking on gypsy’s track before he decided to move off the track and go into bushes. In such situation traffic stops, it reminded me of similar situations in Delhi, when traffic is stopped for VIP movements. Only difference being that in Delhi people are forced to stop and here its magnanimity which made people stop in awe. We were starring at one of the two males in this reserve. Code name B2, he was the biggest Tiger I had ever seen in my life. It was not too long when it disappeared in bushes. Almost same time we got to know about another tigress being spotted close by. Like a beeline gypsies ran again. She was a little too far in bushes so we could just have a glimpse of. By this time day had came to end and it was time for our gypsy to report back to the gate.

Next morning we were back again. This was our third Safari but we still seemed as excited as our first one. We reached the reserves gate. Road to the entrance is also worth a mention. One gypsy after another would swash pass a small stream flowing across the road before it would stop for registration at the entrance gate. During morning hours fixed routes are allocated to each four wheeler. Only after going through that particular route and reporting at central point they can go on any other route. This helps control traffic better inside the reserve.

We were asked to take route D. This was a part of jungle we had not explored earlier. Slightly hilly with thick bamboo forest, interesting landscape I must say. They weren’t many animals that we spotted in this region. Since this was our third day we were not really unhappy about it. Moreover, we knew that patience pays on this land of Big Cat. It again paid back. We saw two stags in wild action. Antlers which are often seen as crown and seem to add more to the looks is also potent fighting equipment. It is said that antlers of stag are meant to attract female counter part and sometimes also used to fight over a female counter part. In early morning silence of jungle the locked horns sounded like a fierce stick fight. It is said sometimes stags break their antlers and even die while fighting. This was one of the best moments we had across during our trip.

We moved on to reach central point and expected to get some information on tiger positions as well. Evening seemed liked better time to spot tigers. Our guide told us that tigers go in shades by 9.30 as it gets too hot by then. Soon we reached center points, had our morning chai and again started our hunt. After wandering for a while we got information about a tigress being spotted but we weren’t lucky this time. We tried a few watering holes as well but still couldn’t spot anything. Now we realized that we were actually in our last two visits. We also came across few other fellow visitors who had not spotted a single tiger so far.

While we were not able to spot another cat we decided to visit the famous Vishnu statue, called Shesh Shaiya. This large statue of Lord Vishnu is located on the Bandhavgarh hill, and is the only area within the park where you can walk on foot. The idol of Lord Vishnu is on a reclining position on the Shesh Naga, the seven-hooded serpent. The deity rests down in a green pool which is also the source of the Charanganga River. According to legends, the Charanganga originates from the feet of Lord Vishnu, hence the water is considered sacred and is left untouched. There was something mystical about this place. For a moment I felt I was in one of Indian Jones movies.

It was almost time for us to finish our safari by reaching starting part. On our way we did manage to spot the last tigress. She was on her way to the rest area, inaccessible by us tourists. Our guide figured that we didn’t get enough of her so to pep us up he decided to show a large spotted Owl and made it seem important while telling us that Owls don’t fly during the day and he must be sleeping therefore we could spend enough time observing it. On our way out we said bye to the two elephants who give company to reserve guards all the time. It was time for us go back to hotel leave for Katni railway station